Known as one of the most scenic spots along the Shimanami Kaido, “Belvedere Setoda” is a distinctive yellow circular steel sculpture floating just offshore from a small sandy beach on the southern side of Ikuchijima island. It sits in a somewhat hard-to-find location, so I’d like to share exactly where it is and how to get there, based on my own visit to the site.
Hi, I’m Yuki Kawai — a touring cyclist based along the Shimanami Kaido. Having cycled this route more than 300 times, I created this site to share practical, experience-based tips for anyone planning a cycling trip here. I hope it helps you make the most of one of Japan’s most beloved cycling destinations.
Belvedere Setoda
Ikuchijima on the Shimanami Kaido
“Belvedere Setoda” is located on Ikuchijima, one of the islands along the Shimanami Kaido. The Shimanami Kaido is a route connecting Onomichi City in Hiroshima Prefecture with Imabari City in Ehime Prefecture, Shikoku, crossing a series of bridges over the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. Beyond the expressway lanes, the route was designed to accommodate cyclists as well, making it one of Japan’s most celebrated cycling roads and drawing attention from around the world. Ikuchijima sits roughly in the middle of the Shimanami Kaido and belongs administratively to Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture.
When people think of art in the Seto Inland Sea, islands such as Naoshima and Shodoshima in Okayama and Kagawa Prefectures often come to mind. These islands are especially lively during the Setouchi Triennale (瀬戸内国際芸術祭), an international art festival held every three years since 2010. The festival’s islands are clustered around the Seto Ohashi Bridge area, on the eastern side of the Seto Inland Sea. Ikuchijima and the other islands of the Shimanami Kaido, on the other hand, lie on the western side of the Seto Inland Sea and fall outside the Setouchi Triennale’s area.
A Pioneer of Island Art in the Seto Inland Sea
Quite apart from the Setouchi Triennale, and while Ikuchijima is now strongly associated with cycling, it is also an island that pioneered the concept of art-based regional revitalization.
Long before it merged into Onomichi City — nearly twenty years earlier, when it was still the independent town of Setoda-cho — the island hosted the “Setoda Biennale” (瀬戸田ビエンナーレ), an outdoor sculpture project, five times between 1989 and the late 1990s. The event was launched by Shigeyoshi Wake, who was then the mayor of Setoda-cho, as a way to energize the local community. In this sense, Ikuchijima can truly be called a pioneer and originator of island art in the Seto Inland Sea.
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The Yellow Circular Sculpture
Celebrated as one of the finest scenic landmarks on the Shimanami Kaido, “Belvedere Setoda” is a steel sculpture consisting of two concentric circular rings set on a base, floating just offshore from a small sandy beach on the southern side of Ikuchijima.
At high tide, the structure sits completely surrounded by water, resembling a floating diving platform. When the tide goes out, you can walk right up to it — stairs are installed so you can climb up onto the platform and use it as a stage. Posing for photos on top of the structure with your bicycle has become something of a Shimanami Kaido cycling tradition.
| Shimagoto Bijutsukan (Island-as-Museum) | Belvedere Setoda |
|---|---|
| Address | Ogi, Setoda-cho, Onomichi City |
| Phone | 0845-27-2210 (Setoda Branch Office, Community Revitalization Division) |
| Hours | Open 24 hours |
| Closed | Never |
| Note | A floating sculpture by artist Kisaburo Kawakami |
Shimagoto Bijutsukan (Island-as-Museum)
Belvedere Setoda was created for the fourth edition of the Setoda Biennale (mentioned above), held in 1996 as part of the fortieth anniversary celebrations of the town of Setoda-cho. It stands approximately 9 meters tall, making it one of the larger works in the exhibition. The sculptures installed across the five editions of the Biennale are scattered across Ikuchijima and the neighboring Takane Island (both part of the former Setoda-cho area). Nearly thirty years on, they continue to be carefully maintained under the collective name “Shimagoto Bijutsukan” (島ごと美術館), which translates roughly as “Island-as-Museum.”
Kisaburo Kawakami
Belvedere Setoda is one of the treasured works preserved as part of the Island-as-Museum collection. It was created by Kisaburo Kawakami (born 1945), a world-renowned architect and sculptor based in London.
His works can be seen in many major urban settings in Japan — including “Series of ARC” in front of the Otemachi Building in Tokyo, “Interactive Wave” at the Marunouchi Building (also in Tokyo), “Rising Rose, Rising Iris” at Nissan Stadium in Kanagawa, and “Landscope” in the Nishi-Umeda area of Osaka.
You may well have encountered his work without realizing it. Kawakami has been involved in numerous large-scale urban development projects, primarily working out of London.
The Meaning Behind the Name and Color
“Belvedere” is an Italian word meaning “beautiful view.” In architectural contexts, it refers to a structure or terrace designed to offer a fine panorama. The term appears in the old townhouses of Venice, and most famously in the name of the Baroque palace in Vienna, Austria — the Belvedere Palace — which takes its name from this very word.
As a Shimanami Kaido-related aside, the Belvedere Palace also reportedly served as an architectural inspiration for the ornate headquarters factory of Nippon Shokuken, a seasoning company based in Imabari City, which is a well-known local landmark on the Ehime side of the Shimanami Kaido.
The striking yellow color of Belvedere Setoda is said to be inspired by the color of lemons. Ikuchijima is known as the birthplace of domestic lemon cultivation in Japan, and it still produces one of the largest volumes of domestically grown lemons in the country. Lemon yellow is practically the image color of Ikuchijima — the Takane Ohashi Bridge connecting nearby Takane Island is yellow, and small yellow mailboxes dot the Shiomachi Shopping Street (しおまち商店街), the tourist area near Setoda Port.
Among all the Island-as-Museum artworks, this one stands out as particularly large and visually striking.
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Where to Find Belvedere Setoda
Ogi, Setoda-cho, Ikuchijima
The Shimanami Kaido has a main recommended cycling route (often called the “Main Route”) running between Onomichi and Imabari — the shortest path, and the one most cyclists and rental bike riders follow. Belvedere Setoda cannot be reached by sticking to this Main Route alone. You need to take the “Outer Perimeter Course” (外周コース), a sub-route that loops around the southern side of Ikuchijima.
What’s more, the sculpture isn’t visible from the road along this southern outer course (National Route 317), and there are no large signboards pointing the way — which means it’s easy to cycle right past the hidden little beach without ever knowing it’s there. The address is Ogi, Setoda-cho, and the site is located right next to the former Onomichi Municipal Minami Elementary School, which was closed in 2013 when it was merged into Setoda Elementary School.
Look for the “Hagi” Bus Stop
There are almost no signs for the former elementary school along the route, and the school building itself isn’t visible from the road, so the most reliable landmark is the “Hagi” bus stop, served by Honshi Bus (本四バス開発株式会社). The local “Ikuchijima Circular Line” operated by Honshi Bus stops at Hagi on both the eastbound and westbound circuits, so it’s also possible to reach the site by bus from Setoda Port or Kosanji Temple (耕三寺, a renowned ornate temple on Ikuchijima). Taking the westbound bus from Setoda Port, the journey takes about 15 minutes.
The sandy beach where Belvedere Setoda stands is on the ocean side of the Hagi bus stop. You’ll turn into a narrow path right alongside the covered bus shelter (the one where the eastbound buses stop). Head in the direction of the tropical-looking tree visible in the photo above.
At the entrance, I found what appeared to be a handmade sign reading “すぐソコ、ベルベデールせとだ” (“Belvedere Setoda — just ahead!”), accompanied by a photo of the artwork. This is essentially the only sign of any kind at this location. Given how well-known a photo spot it has become, more prominent signage would certainly be helpful — but in a way, the experience of having to seek it out gives the place a sense of discovery that is rather special in itself.
This is the site of the former school gate. Walking straight through leads you to the old school building and grounds. I checked with the Onomichi City office, and they confirmed that as of now, visitors arriving by car are welcome to park briefly within the former school grounds. There is no dedicated parking for Belvedere Setoda.
The school building and grounds have been kept in good condition even more than ten years after the school closed (though the assembly hall has been demolished and cleared). Various proposals for repurposing the site have been considered over the years, but it doesn’t appear to be in regular use at present. It does, however, come alive for community events such as illumination displays and moon-viewing gatherings.
From inside the former school gate, you can access the beach where Belvedere Setoda stands by going through the breakwater fence on the left. The beach is small — around 90 meters wide — but the fine white sand makes it a genuinely beautiful spot. Sandy beaches are actually quite scarce along the southern coast of Ikuchijima, making this a precious swimming location; in summer, local children come here to enjoy the water.
The sound of the waves here is wonderfully calm, and it’s a place I’m really fond of — not just for photos, but simply for spending some unhurried time. The Belvedere Setoda sculpture had been showing signs of rust from constant exposure to seawater, but with growing numbers of visitors coming to see it, the paintwork was restored in March 2022 and it’s looking beautiful again.
Belvedere Setoda has been freshly repainted and looks even better in photos now — I hope you get the chance to see it for yourself!
Sightseeing Spots along the Shimanami Kaido
There are many more wonderful spots to discover along the Shimanami Kaido beyond Belvedere Setoda. I’ve put together information on sightseeing spots, scenic viewpoints, cafes, and shops — places worth stopping at by bicycle, car, or motorcycle throughout all four seasons — organized by island, along with visitor impressions and reviews.
In this article, I’ve introduced Belvedere Setoda, a beloved photo spot on Ikuchijima along the Shimanami Kaido. On my website “Shimanami Cycling Tips,” I share information primarily aimed at first-time visitors looking to enjoy this iconic cycling destination at their own pace. A magnificent cycling route and the beautiful scenery of the Seto Inland Sea await you!